Ville Vartiainen

portfolio, blog and the occasional Nordic musing

Archive for April, 2008

Muy Bonito!

After hot Asuncion we headed to back to Brazil. The bus had airconditioning this time, so in principle the 5-6 hr journey was going to more comfortable than the cattle-car experience previously.

Only the driver decided to earn a few extra guaranis and the coach stopped literally every 5-10 minutes to pick up a few ‘extra’ locals, who stood in the aisle as the bus was fully booked. During the trip (which in the end lasted 7 hours due to the extra stops), over 30 additional passengers with all their luggage boarded and got off the bus. Some had small children in their laps, there was even a whole family with 3 kids.  Amongst all this,  people selling drinks, snacks, sun glasses, watches, DVDs or razor blades would occasionally get on the coach and negotiate their way past all the passengers and get off at the next stop.  All part of the Latin America experience!!

Instead of the quick overnight stay at the completely unremarkable border town Ponta Bora, we ended up spending the morning waiting for the federal police (who also act as the immigration office) to finish the aftermath of a big drug bust from the previous night. All part of the…

We finally arrived in Bonito (’pretty’ in Portuguese), which is true to its name – nice, small relaxing little town after the big, busy cities.  A lot of Brasilians come here on holiday e.g. from Sao Paulo.

Today we went snorkeling down Rio da Prata, a crystal clear shallow river which is full of freshwater fish.  Slowly drifting down the warm waters (+24C) for over an hour spotting fish, occasionally popping your head out of the water to see birds and other animals on the river banks was easily the best snorkeling experience we´ve had.  Photos on the Rio da Prata site.

It’s a shame to leave Bonito already tomorrow, as there would have been loads of other good day trips to do here!

April 15th, 2008 | 1 Comment

Soy una Legenda en Paraguay

That’s right, we have arrived in Paraguay!

We left Foz de Iguazu yesterday, it was a hot morning and it was only going to get hotter from thereon.

The border crossing to Paraguay was an alternative immigration experience. We arrive at the Brazilian checkpoint, which is just over the bridge from Ciudad del Este which is a mad place where you can buy anything from cheap electronics to guns and ammo. Our driver parked the minibus and our group trudged the long way over a busy road into the immigration terminal, because for some unknown reason we werent allowed to take the stairs that led directly to the officials’ hut. Having submitted or passports we then trudged back to the bus in the searing heat, and our driver drove us over the “Friendship Bridge” to the Paraguayan immigration point. At this point we were officially illegally in Paraguay! We then collected our official passport stamps from another pokey little immigration point, and drove onto the bus station as legal visitors to Paraguay.

We had a hour to kill at the bus depot, so we bought some more of what would be several litres of water that day (Muy Caliente!), and had a pretty good hamburger in the restaurant. It felt strange paying for items in our new currency, as 2 bottles of water came to 10,000 Guaranis (that is 1GBP). We were all carrying alot of zeros with us today.

Finally at noon we borded a bus which, especially compared to the rather luxurious coaches we were used to in Brazil, looked rather shabby. It would turn out to be a deathly heat trap for the next 5 and a half hours as there was no aircon and outside the temperatures hovered around 40 celsius. Sanni and I drank gallons of water and undressed as much as was decent in public, but still it was hard going. The bus was also not an express bus as it was constantly stopping to pick up more passengers at seemingly random locations, or to allow the driver to pick 15 deck chairs in a roadside shop he rather fancied the look of – but it never stopped to let us off for lunch and a chance to cool off.

However, when all seemed lost and I was really going crazy with the heat and the woman to my right blasting out dodgy latin music from her mobile, we finally entered Asuncion and made our way to the “Palace Hotel”. We had already decided that with a name like that it was bound to be on a par with our Hotel in Sao Paolo, and although the outside promised palatial splendour, the rooms turned out to be very old and worn. However I must say that the hotel has a certain charm, the staff are very nice and it is well placed in the heart of Asuncion.

After an early night we awoke refreshed and ready to go out and explore what the city had to offer. We had breakfast and headed out of the front door with a spring in our step, as it was a lovely sunny day. It also turned out to be hotter than yesterday, and within 15 minutes or hearts were thumping and we were gasping for some cold water. I can now see why Terere is so popular here – in the hot months all the locals carry around a big thermos full of cold Yerba Mate, which must enable them to get from A to B in this weather.

So we reverted to what is swiftly becoming or favourite past time – hanging out in the Mall! Aircon, food, and we got to see “I am Legend” for 1 pound each. Great! It was a really good movie in my opinion, but really scary, and afterwards Sanni and I both got the fear wandering the streets of Asuncion as it was still blisteringly hot and there was a really noisy political rally going on in the center. We headed back to the hotel for a cool beer, and all was well again -although the little hotel dog with the jutting teeth was still slightly unsettling to us!

Time for dinner now, hopefully another buffet offering where you can pay by the kilo – yummm!! :)

April 11th, 2008 | 2 Comments

"Poor Niagara"

is what Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly said when she first saw the Iguazu Falls. Although I wouldn´t diss the Niagara Falls, Cataratas do Iguazu is pretty awe-inspiring. The name of the falls, which are located on the border between Brazil and Argentina, derives from the Guarani words i (water) and uazu (big), and that´s exactly what it is. The sheer number of different falls (275) is astonishing, but it´s the power of the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) which is truly breathtaking.

We visited the falls first from the Brazil side, and on the second day from the Argentinian side. Many people say the latter offers better views, but I think both offer an awesome experience! In Argentina we took a speed boat trip under some of the ´smaller´ falls, which was refreshing after all the waiting (see below).

Our trip to the Argentinian side was hampered both ways by a road barricade 10km before the entrance to the Iguazu national park. The local parents were demonstrating against poor conditions in the local schools, and wanted to get more attention for their cause by blocking the access to one of the major touristic attractions in Argentina. Fortunately even they had to have lunch, and all the cars, buses and lorries were let through after a 2.5hr wait.  On the way back it was a mere 45 min wait until the protesters gave up and went home.  

April 9th, 2008 | 0 Comments

About Sao Paulo

Sao Paulo is 3 times the size of Paris, and the official estimates for the population of Sao Paulo are between 18-24 million – the error margin is bigger than the whole population of Finland!!  It´s a crazy, busy, polluted, and at times quite a depressing place to visit. On the way from Paraty (the last 1.5 hrs of the 6hr bus trip were within Sao Paulo) we saw favela after favela, and a high security prisons with watch towers in each corner.  We got the ´big city angst´ straight away!

On the lighter side the Sao Paulo´s Museum of Art (MASP) had a good collection of Brasilian modern art and a Tatsumi Orimoto retrospective featuring photos from Orimoto´s performances, including his famous alter ego, Bread Man. More on Orimoto.

Also, the highlight of our hotel, which was otherwise a real dump, was finding the local Kiss FM which played fantastic 80´s and 90´s rock anthems. Genesis, REM, Guns&Roses, Aerosmith, Bon Jovi – you name it!! 

April 7th, 2008 | 2 Comments

34 in Sao Paolo

Good morning,

thanks for all the birthday wishes, I can report that although I suffered some big city angst on entering this mega city, we went out last night with most of our group (some Taxi comedy resulted in a third of the group being lost) and drank what turned out to be very strong Caipirinhas! Anyway, it was a good night, which Sanni and I decided to bow out of when we went drinking with some locals who took us to the local version of Nandos (fine if you want chicken, not if you want a good drink).

Cheers!

April 5th, 2008 | 1 Comment

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